December 20, 2010
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Non-Ply Yarn
[無撚糸小考]
今天見到小奧君貼了一篇「乜撚系之強撚與無撚」。聽起來很像粗口，不過當然不是，因為這題目在Tommy大那邊也討論過﹕ok, u win 7
當時在下如此回應﹕
「無撚」那個我在百佳也見過，日文標誌寫「無撚糸」，我當時猜應該是指沒有捻紗的意思。
百毒有解釋﹕
http://zhidao.baidu.com/question/19390512.html?si=5
http://baike.baidu.com/view/1267565.htm?func=retitle不過不要問我捻紗是怎樣做，我不懂紡織。
今天在小奧的文中見到新資料，令我有點頭緒﹕
撚糸ってなに？
漢字で書くと「撚糸(ねんし）」。糸に撚り（より）をかけること、または撚りをかけた糸のことです。「撚る（よる）」とはねじりあわせること。”腕によりをかける”とか、”よりを戻す”って言葉、ご存知ですよね。
撚り（縒りとも書きます）は日常会話の中で使われていますが、「糸の撚り」を語源として出てきた言葉なんです。皆さんは、糸に撚りがかかっていることをご存知でしたか？糸をねじりあわせると言われても、ピンとこないかも知れません。
でも、糸に撚りをかけることは、糸にとっても、その糸を使って作られる繊維製品にとっても、たいへん重要な役割を持っているんです。
於是答﹕
再查，有一位Yahoo網友也查過「無撚糸」的意思，還附上另一幅圖。更重要的是，雖在日本，但這網頁是用英文寫的﹕
(內野株式會社)於是再查下去就簡單了。
網上大英百科的解釋﹕
production (in textile: Ply yarns)
Ply, plied, or folded, yarns are composed of two or more single yarns twisted together. Two-ply yarn, for example, is composed of two single strands; three-ply yarn is composed of three single strands. In making ply yarns from spun strands, the individual strands are usually each twisted in one direction and are then combined and twisted in...維基百科﹕Yarn
Spun yarn is made by twisting or otherwise bonding staple fibers together to make a cohesive thread.[2] Twisting fibers into yarn in the process called spinning can be dated back to the Upper Paleolithic[3], and yarn spinning was one of the very first processes to be industrialized. Spun yarns may contain a single type of fiber, or be a blend of various types. Combining synthetic fibers (which can have high strength, lustre, and fire retardant qualities) with natural fibers (which have good water absorbency and skin comforting qualities) is very common. The most widely used blends are cotton-polyester and wool-acrylic fiber blends. Blends of different natural fibers are common too, especially with more expensive fibers such as angora and cashmere.
Yarns are made up of a number of plies, each ply being a single spun yarn. These single plies of yarn are twisted together (plied) in the opposite direction to make a thicker yarn. Depending on the direction of this final twist, the yarn will be known as s-twist or z-twist. For a single ply, the direction of the final twist is the same as its original twist.
簡單點說(反正我不懂紡織)，「撚糸」即是「紡紗」時的「捻紗」程序。有捻的紗就像上面的右圖一樣，纖維扭得結實了。無捻(即「無撚」)的紗就像左圖，纖維較疏鬆，於是較柔軟。
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(註﹕以前在cuhk.forum討論時，搜尋網上日文資料後寫過一篇「日本國花考」，指出日本人對「國花」的爭議，和有人以菊為「國花」、櫻為「國木」的看法。當然在下是不懂日文的。)
上次跟Tommyjonk大討論過，無撚是指沒有經過「撚毛」這程序的意思。
我不懂纖維工業，所以不知撚毛是甚麼工序。不過看那個日文網頁似乎是指把纖維扭成一線的意思，那麼「無撚」即是網頁第一幅圖的狀況吧﹖